Local Walk, a Nice Pint of Real Ale and Rosslyn Chapel.

Local Walk, a Nice Pint of Real Ale and Rosslyn Chapel.

With Storm Atiya lurking over the UK and Donald visiting  Donald snr. who has recently turned ninety years old, a feat that defies all medical science! what was I to do with my day?

I decided that I fancied a little trip out to Rosslyn Chapel and as there are plenty of lovely walks in the area, I’d take Loki and Olly with me.

We decide that there was little point in waiting for the wind and rain to abate, whilst the south west was really getting battered by Atiya, we were not untouched and it seemed set in for the day. So, the dogs and I waterproofed up to the gunnels, parked beside the chapel and set off for our walk first.

Walk along the River North Esk

It’s a nice circular route that begins and ends at Rosslyn Chapel, a favourite one of ours when we are in the area

We walked past the chapel to the end of the lane and Slatebarns Caravan site, bearing right onto the footpath.

Of course, all of this rain meant that the foot paths were a tad slippy, but no rush. . Half of the walk follows  The River North Esk, which was flowing in full spate. Brown water rushing helter scelter 

around the twists and turns, hurrying on towards the sea.

Local Wildlife

A heron flew without sound up river and I stood and watched some dippers, looking rather dapper in their dinner suits, black jackets and white tux. Flitting from branch to branch, low over the tumultuous water.

We normally see roe deer in the fields and woods here, its usually their white bottoms that catch our eye first, as they bound away, spooked by the dogs. Today though they must be tucked away and well camouflaged, sheltering from the weather.

On the other side of the river sits Hawthornden Castle, pretty in pink sandstone. It was the home of poet William Drummond and today it fittingly serves as a retreat for artists and writers.

Through the kissing gate, but no one to kiss today, the dogs and I took in an extra little loop that takes us into Hewan Woods. It follows a big bend in the river and to the site of Maiden Castle, an iron-age fort. The river is a good drop below us here and the weir is quite spectacular as so much rain tumbles over it.

Otters live along this stretch of the river, we always look for paw prints in the sand along the banks, but our tracking skills arn’t up to much and as the dogs have usually galloped all over the place, any tracks that there might have been probably get churned up by them.

It is little wonder that the glen is such a haven for wildlife for it is the largest surviving stretch of ancient woodland in Midlothian.

Through the woods and onto the Loanhead Railway Path, we follow this for a short way and I get the boys on their leads before passing through Dryden Farm. Just along from the farm is a memorial to one of the bloodiest battles of the Scottish Wars of Independence, The Battle of Roslin Memorial.

You can follow a path sign posted Bilston which follows Kill Burn, so called because it is said to have run red with blood for three days after the Battle.

Refreshments

We continued on the path for the village though, keen now to get out of the weather and seek refuge in The Original Rosslyn Inn for a cheeky half pint of local handcrafted ale before heading back to Rosslyn Chapel.

If you didn’t fancy a pub, you could always pop into Dollys Tea Room instead. Named after Dolly the sheep who was cloned in Roslin.

Rosslyn Chapel

Dogs nicely tired, we head for the chapel, which was put firmly on the tourist map by Dan Browns Da Vinci Code. The final scenes of the film were shot here, with Tom Hanks and Audry Tautou on site for a few days.

Founded way back in 1446 by Sir William St Clair, in the hope that it would secure him a place in Heaven. His plans were for a mini cathedral, but he died in 1484 before its completion. His son Oliver, one of 18 children, spent 2 years making it fit for purpose as a private chapel.

In 1592 the Religious reformation saw the chapel closed and abandoned for over 200 years.

This romantic chapel ruin and the pretty glen that it sits in has inspired artists such as William Turner and John Constable and writers including Robert Burns, Dorothy Wordsworth, her brother William and Sir Walter Scott. When you visit it is easy to see why.

In the 1950’s, roof repairs were undertaken and the interior stone work was cleaned and a protective coating applied. These measures taken in good faith however, ultimately led to water being trapped inside the stone and a green algae began to form turning the whole interior green.

In 1995, the Rosslyn Chapel Trust was formed to care for the chapel. Steps were taken to allow the stonework to dry out naturally and real restoration work began.

Today, as I stepped from the atrocious weather outside, into the arms of the chapel, I was greeted by the scent of beeswax candles and enveloped in a warm honey glow of light and warmth.

I have skimmed over the history of this place and now I don’t even know if I can put into words it’s beauty and magic. I’m sure that there are wordsmiths out there who can, but I feel I may do it some sort of injustice.

I’m not a religious person. Am I a spiritual soul? Yes I think that I am. I felt something here that I cannot explain nor do I understand. I felt quite overcome by emotion and even tearful. A sense of peace. I didn’t bother to read all the information about the carvings, riddled with story, mystery and intrigue though they are. Photography is not allowed inside, although people do try, but at their peril for  duty guide Maureen’s eagle eyes miss not a trick and fiercely protective she had no qualms reminding them of the policy. For me there’s no point trying. A photograph stolen on a mobile phone will never do it justice and it was so nice to be the moment.

An ornate skirt decorates the alter. Made up of four panels of elaborate embroidery depicting the Lords Prayer. I asked Maureen who made it, She laughed and told me that it was the local Sunday school children and that there was glitter, glue and buttons everywhere.

A simple Nativity scene lay nestled in the tomb of the 4th Earl of Caithness. Beautifully carved wooden figures snuggled in a bed of hay. William the chapel cat slept curled up tight on pew. A real Christmas tree decorated The Lady Chapel, already the most ornate section of the chapel, it’s pine scent adding to the atmosphere.

I lit a candle for my Grandparents then decided to head into the visitor centre. With its interactive displays, Rosslyn mysteries told by the UK’s Storyteller Laureate and activities for children to enjoy, a beautiful selection of gifts and coffee shop.

I enjoyed a nice coffee and a slice of cake then bought a few more Christmas presents, including an Emma Bridgewater mug, deigned especially for Rosslyn Chapel, for myself and a beautiful book, ‘William the Cat and the Rescue of Rosslyn Chapel’ written by The Countess of Rosslyn, for our wee nephew

Time to head home now and think about dinner and hear Donalds news from Glasgow. There’s a little romance blossoming between Donald snr. and the lady in the flat upstairs. He may be ninety, but there’s life in the old dog yet.