Be sure to wrap up warm and don’t forget your waterproofs!
Sunday the 11th, Remembrance Sunday
Dear All,
It’s certainly getting colder here in Edinburgh. We’ve had plenty of rain, our local dog walks are thick mud and it’s been a job to keep the dog’s vaguely clean, and hence the house. Over the last few day’s , temperatures have really dropped, we’ve been waking up to some heavy frosts and there’s a lace like dusting of snow along the Pentland Hills.
All the more reason to seek out cosy bolt holes. We’ve had a great Summer travelling around the Highlands and Islands, but today we wanted to explore a bit closer to home, so we decided to head for North Berwick and explore a few places along the way.
It was a dreich day. As we left Edinburgh behind us we soon found ourselves in open countryside.
The ochre leaves of the trees, beech and oak mostly, a warming contrast against the ever darkening skies. Cock pheasants, sporting their bright orange waistcoats, pottered and pecked about the ploughed fields.
Our first port of call was to be The Glenkinchie Distillery, in the village of Pencaitland, still spitting distance from the city centre. We parked the car and walked past a bit of a building site to get to the visitor centre. Despite the cold, we were very warmly welcomed by a rather jolly lady who asked us if we would like to take a tour. We didn’t that day, we just wanted to have a look. Jolly Lady informed us that the next day, the visitor centre was to be moved into portacabins for the Winter whilst major work was undertaken. Glenkinchie is part of the Diagio dynasty and has been chosen as the Lowland flagship.
Under the plans, it’s Victorian red brick buildings will be transformed into a multi level visitor centre. It will include a new bar and event area, welcome lounge, tasting rooms and cask draw experience. Also there will be beautifully landscaped gardens. The plans look incredible and it is hoped to be completed by May 2020.
In the mean time tours and tastings will still be available for visitors. I look forward to a return visit with eager anticipation, it all promises to be well worth the upheaval.
So, we said “cheerio” and piled back into the car to follow the Hillfoots Trail in the direction of Tantallon Castle. The weather was making no attempt to perk up what so ever, but that didn’t spoil the drive. Heated seats for toasty bottoms and beautiful scenery. High, clipped beech hedges, ploughed fields and pretty villages.Pencaitland with its lovely parish kirk, poppy clad worshipers on their way out from a service of Remembrance.
The Royal Burgh of Haddington, the main administrative, cultural and geographical centre for East Lothian, and still only 17 miles from Edinburgh. It’s wide main street flanked with pretty villas and some very handsome buildings.
East Linton has a great gastro pub, The Crown Inn and Kitchen. too early for lunch yet though, so we continue.
By this point, the rain was persistant, but not to be outdone by the weather, we rallied forth along ‘Scotlands Golf Coast Trail’, turning off at Tantallon Castle.
‘Bold, massive, high and stretching far.’, as Sir Walter Scott described it in his ballad ‘Marmion’ (1808). These romantic yet formidable ruins, hang white knuckled onto the very cliff edge. Strategically situated on the south coast of the Firth of Forth where it opens into the North Sea.There come rain and shine since the 1300’s. Ultimately destroyed by Cromwell’s troops in a siege of 1651, it’s remains stand resolute, hanging on for grim death. I clambered up a tower, it’s wet, stone tightly spiraled staircase steep was not for the faint hearted, the views from the top though were rewarding. Despite the rain over Tantallon, the sun was shining across the Forth onto the Isle of May and the East Neuk of Fife.
At the foot of Tantallon, a mile off shore, a volcanic mass juts 106 metres above sea level. Bass Rock. With a whole fascinating history of it’s own. One story in particular made me feel even colder than I was already, that of the time, during the seventeenth century when the island served as a military battery. The one hundred soldiers who existed there surely drew the short straw or upset some body. They survived (barely) on fish caught by gannets and by burning the gannets nests to keep vaguely warm. Grim times.
Today Bass Rock is home to the largest gannet colony in the world as well as a whole host of other seabirds and marine life. The Bass has been described by Sir David Attenborough as, “one of the twelve wildlife wonders of the world”. Visit the Scottish Seabird Centre in North Berwick to learn more.
On a Summers day, the lawns stretching in front of the castle would make a fine spot for a picnic. Not today though, chilled to the bone it was time to head for North Berwick and find somewhere snug for lunch. Lead the way Donald.
Only 3 miles west from the castle lies the seaside town of North Berwick. We parked up free of charge along side the east beach. Hands thrust deep in pockets, our next mission was most definitely food!
I had The Rocketeer in mind. Once North Berwicks coastguard station, right on the harbour, now a restaurant serving dishes made using fresh, local produce, and a definate emphasis on fresh seafood. Sadly, despite time of year and weather, they were fully booked-note to self-so we headed back out and found ourselves in the Signals Bistro instead. We were lucky to get a table, every other was full. It seems that the weather had driven everyone to do the same as us. There was a lovely atmosphere, warm and welcoming, relaxed and friendly. The walls were decorated with colourful, art work by local artist Rob Hain. Folksy scenes depicting the harbour, Bass Rock, the North Berwick Law-an extinct volcano, plonked right in the middle of the town, the Saltire, turquoise seas and colourful fishing boats.
I loved the chalk board sign saying, “we don’t serve fast food, we serve good food as fast as we can”
Indeed, the food was good and it arrived in a timely manner. The menu was great, serving a good selection of options for seafood lovers, meat lovers and vegetarians alike. We opted for the Sunday special menu. Two courses for £9.95. Donald chose a starter of spicy sweet potato soup followed by an unctuous fish pie served with hand cut chips. I went for roast lamb from a local butcher who got it from a local farm. Local lamb at its most localness. It was beautiful, thick, tender slices in a rich meaty gravy, the like of which I haven’t enjoyed since one of my Mum’s roast dinners. It did a grand job of warming me up too.
Not one to miss out on a homemade pudding, I ordered Eves pudding, a classic British nursery pud. Apple, plump sultanas and soft vanilla sponge, rising out of a sea of custard like Bass Rock out of the Firth of Forth. Sublime.
By the time we stepped back outside, the rain had stopped and looking back down the street towards the sea, a rainbow framed the picture.
I would have loved a wander through the town, with it’s upmarket galleries, individual shops and deli’s, but our dogs, Loki and Olly had been so patient and were due a well deserved run on the beach.
So, we headed down to the West Beach, flanked by the North Berwick Links Golf Course. There were plenty of folk out walking off their Sunday lunches, glad of a break in the weather. Happy dogs and happy owners. Happy days.
By now it was late afternoon, so we decided to head back home via Dirlton. This beautiful village with its large village green, cosy pub, picturesque kirk and of course Dirleton Castle and Gardens. But, again, we will have to visit that one another day. Now dusk, the light fading fast, a formation of geese flew overhead, their honking a real signal its winter. Smoke curled from cottage chimneys and twinkling lights shone through chinks in curtains.
Despite the earlier rain, we had a wonderful day. We passed through so many places that I would love to visit another day, and I definitely need more time in North Berwick for a mooch around the shops and to have a proper look in the Scottish Seabird Visitor Centre. It really is incredible how much that there is to see in such a small area, in the winter on a wet day.
See you again soon.
Warm Regards
Anna
Nicolson Tours Blog 