A Palace, some Christmas Shopping, Wonderful Walk and Cake.

A welcome break from the mud and rain, we awoke today to a heavy frost.

After a bit of a lazy morning I shoved a casserole in the crock pot, we bundled up in our warmest winter woollies and the dogs leapt aboard for a wee trip to Dalkeith Palace and Country Park.

Blue skies and a glittering frost covered the country side and of course the elusive sunshine chased away the winter blues leaving  me feeling slightly giddy and so happy to be alive.

Situated just a twenty minute drive, south east of the city centre. Post code for sat nav EH22 1ST

Or hop on a Lothian bus from the city, a number 3, 33 or 49 to Dalkeith will do the trick.

We pulled over at a rather grand entrance to the estate to take some photos. Golden sandstone walls and pillars capped with huge stone urns an elaborate wrought iron archway and gate and a very photogenic gate house, all with a back drop of naked trees and blue sky.

Back in the car, we continued down an impressively long drive way, which meandered through the woodland. The estate is over 1000 acres of woodland and working farmland, producing timber for furniture making and bio fuel, crops, cattle , sheep and pigs. In the centre of the park is the Old Oak and is an incredible 900 years old or more.

Enough of that though, I was in a shopping mood today. It’s not something that overcomes me very often, a fact that makes me wonder whether my little sister and I are even related at all. Today however, Donald was just a little apprehensive to let me loose with the credit card.

We parked the car and headed straight or the Restoration Yard. A beautifully restored 1740’s stable yard and courtyard creating an up market shopping experience. Crammed to the rafters with quality clothing for all ages, a wonderful array of books, home wares and a food hall filled with…food. Preserves, olives, local cheese and other dairy delights, wine, craft ales and gin, whisky, nibbles, cakes and pastries, chocolates and then some. Not somewhere that you’d do your weekly shop, but a place to buy special little luxury treats.

It was a great chance to buy some beautiful, thoughtful Christmas gifts in lovely relaxing surroundings, browse without the stress and hurly burly of a busy retail chain store. My idea of shopping.

Of course, those of you who know me, we had to have a coffee and cake. In the Coffee Bar, we were faced with a tempting array of home bakes and feeling not the slightest inkling to resist, I picked a slab of ginger cake and a pot of Earl Grey. The cake was moreishly moist and dense, spicy, gingery

and topped with icing and a generous grating of lime zest.

As well as the Coffee Bar, there is The Kitchen for breakfast, lunch or afternoon tea.

For those with young children, there is the Fort Douglas Adventure Park. I know our boys would have loved it back in the day. I must admit I was tempted to have some fun exploring the tree houses and I love a good zip wire. We opted for a walk around the grounds instead, as Loki and Olly had been good as gold whilst we did all the boring human stuff. Time for them to let off some steam.

And let off steam they did. The frost had not thawed all day, there were plenty of families out and about with dogs of all shapes and sizes. Our boys had a grand time haring up and down the steep banks that run from the palace down to the

North Esk river and Montagu Bridge.

Having made friends with a lovely lady sausage dog named Haggis, I kid you not.(Poor Haggis didn’t quite know what to make of our two loons), we headed under the bridge to follow a woodland path that followed the river. It was so cold that a heavy mist hung above the freezing water, giving it an eerie feel.

It was all going swimmingly until Loki disappeared. To cut a long story short, we found him some thirty minutes later. On the other side of the river! I was transported back to our (human)boys sports days, standing at the finish line shouted and cheering and encouraging. Are you even allowed to do that now? Anyway, Loki took some convincing to get back into the river to cross. Already wet and cold, the temperature having struggled to get above freezing all day, he was not keen. Eventually he took the plunge and swam back across. Daft dog! Next stop home to get him dry and warmed up.

It had been a really nice afternoon. Dogs suitably tired and non the worse for a chilly dip and I happy to have made a small start on my Christmas shopping. All in all, Dalkeith Country Park comes highly recommended by us and so if you are in Edinburgh and fancy a wee trip out and the idea of a bus doesn’t appeal, give us a shout. You might even get to meet Haggis!

Be sure to wrap up warm and don’t forget your waterproofs!

Sunday the 11th, Remembrance Sunday

Dear All,

It’s certainly getting colder here in Edinburgh. We’ve had plenty of rain, our local dog walks are thick mud and it’s been a job to keep the dog’s vaguely clean, and hence the house.  Over the last few day’s , temperatures have really dropped, we’ve been waking up to some heavy frosts and there’s a lace like dusting of snow along the Pentland Hills.

All the more reason to seek out cosy bolt holes. We’ve had a great Summer travelling around the Highlands and Islands, but today we wanted to explore a bit closer to home, so we decided to head for North Berwick and explore a few places along the way.

It was a dreich day. As we left Edinburgh behind us we soon found ourselves in open countryside.

The ochre leaves of the trees, beech and oak mostly, a warming contrast against the ever darkening skies. Cock pheasants, sporting their bright orange waistcoats, pottered and pecked about the ploughed fields.

Our first port of call was to be The Glenkinchie Distillery, in the village of Pencaitland, still spitting distance from the city centre. We parked the car and walked past a bit of a building site to get to the visitor centre. Despite the cold, we were very warmly welcomed by a rather jolly lady who asked us if we would like to take a tour. We didn’t that day, we just wanted to have a look. Jolly Lady informed us that the next day, the visitor centre was to be moved into portacabins for the Winter whilst major work was undertaken. Glenkinchie is part of the Diagio dynasty and has been chosen as the Lowland flagship.

Under the plans, it’s Victorian red brick buildings will be transformed into a multi level visitor centre. It will include a new bar and event area, welcome lounge, tasting rooms and cask draw experience. Also there will be beautifully landscaped gardens. The plans look incredible and it is hoped to be completed by May 2020.

In the mean time tours and tastings will still be available for visitors. I look forward to a return visit with eager anticipation, it all promises to be well worth the upheaval.

So, we said “cheerio” and piled back into the car to follow the Hillfoots Trail in the direction of Tantallon Castle. The weather was making no attempt to perk up what so ever, but that didn’t spoil the drive. Heated seats for toasty bottoms and beautiful scenery. High, clipped beech hedges, ploughed fields and pretty villages.Pencaitland with its lovely parish kirk, poppy clad worshipers on their way out from a service of Remembrance.

The Royal Burgh of Haddington, the main administrative, cultural and geographical centre for East Lothian, and still only 17 miles from Edinburgh. It’s wide main street flanked with pretty villas and some very handsome buildings.

East Linton has a great gastro pub, The Crown Inn and Kitchen. too early for lunch yet though, so we continue.

By this point, the rain was persistant, but not to be outdone by the weather, we rallied forth along ‘Scotlands Golf Coast Trail’, turning off at Tantallon Castle.

‘Bold, massive, high and stretching far.’, as Sir Walter Scott described it in his ballad ‘Marmion’ (1808). These romantic yet formidable ruins, hang white knuckled onto the very cliff edge. Strategically situated on the south coast of the Firth of Forth where it opens into the North Sea.There come rain and shine since the 1300’s. Ultimately destroyed by Cromwell’s troops in a siege of 1651, it’s remains stand resolute, hanging on for grim death. I clambered up a tower, it’s wet, stone tightly spiraled staircase steep was not for the faint hearted, the views from the top though were rewarding. Despite the rain over Tantallon, the sun was shining across the Forth onto the Isle of May and the East Neuk of Fife.

At the foot of Tantallon, a mile off shore, a volcanic mass juts 106 metres above sea level. Bass Rock. With a whole fascinating history of it’s own. One story in particular made me feel even colder than I was already, that of the time, during the seventeenth century when the island served as a military battery. The one hundred soldiers who existed there surely drew the short straw or upset some body. They survived (barely) on fish caught by gannets and by burning the gannets nests to keep vaguely warm. Grim times.

Today Bass Rock is home to the largest gannet colony in the world as well as a whole host of other seabirds and marine life. The Bass has been described by Sir David Attenborough as, “one of the twelve wildlife wonders of the world”. Visit the Scottish Seabird Centre in North Berwick to learn more.

On a Summers day, the lawns stretching in front of the castle would make a fine spot for a picnic. Not today though, chilled to the bone it was time to head for North Berwick and find somewhere snug for lunch. Lead the way Donald.

Only 3 miles west from the castle lies the seaside town of North Berwick. We parked up free of charge along side the east beach. Hands thrust deep in pockets, our next mission was most definitely food!

I had The Rocketeer in mind. Once North Berwicks coastguard station, right on the harbour, now a restaurant serving dishes made using fresh, local produce, and a definate emphasis on fresh seafood. Sadly, despite time of year and weather, they were fully booked-note to self-so we headed back out and found ourselves in the Signals Bistro instead. We were lucky to get a table, every other was full. It seems that the weather had driven everyone to do the same as us. There was a lovely atmosphere, warm and welcoming, relaxed and friendly. The walls were decorated with colourful, art work by local artist Rob Hain. Folksy scenes depicting the harbour, Bass Rock, the North Berwick Law-an extinct volcano, plonked right in the middle of the town, the Saltire, turquoise seas and colourful fishing boats.

I loved the chalk board sign saying, “we don’t serve fast food, we serve good food as fast as we can” 

Indeed, the food was good and it arrived in a timely manner. The menu was great, serving a good selection of options for seafood lovers, meat lovers and vegetarians alike. We opted for the Sunday special menu. Two courses for £9.95. Donald chose a starter of spicy sweet potato soup followed by an unctuous fish pie served with hand cut chips. I went for roast lamb from a local butcher who got it from a local farm. Local lamb at its most localness. It was beautiful, thick, tender slices in a rich meaty gravy, the like of which I haven’t enjoyed since one of my Mum’s roast dinners. It did a grand job of warming me up too.

Not one to miss out on a homemade pudding, I ordered Eves pudding, a classic British nursery pud. Apple, plump sultanas and soft vanilla sponge, rising out of a sea of custard like Bass Rock out of the Firth of Forth. Sublime.

By the time we stepped back outside, the rain had stopped and looking back down the street towards the sea, a rainbow framed the picture.

I would have loved a wander through the town, with it’s upmarket galleries, individual shops and deli’s, but our dogs, Loki and Olly had been so patient and were due a well deserved run on the beach.

So, we headed down to the West Beach, flanked by the North Berwick Links Golf Course. There were plenty of folk out walking off their Sunday lunches, glad of a break in the weather. Happy dogs and happy owners. Happy days.

By now it was late afternoon, so we decided to head back home via Dirlton. This beautiful village with its large village green, cosy pub, picturesque kirk and of course Dirleton Castle and Gardens. But, again, we will have to visit that one another day. Now dusk, the light fading fast, a formation of geese flew overhead, their honking a real signal its winter. Smoke curled from cottage chimneys and twinkling lights shone through chinks in curtains.

Despite the earlier rain, we had a wonderful day. We passed through so many places that I would love to visit another day, and I definitely need more time in North Berwick for a mooch around the shops and to have a proper look in the Scottish Seabird Visitor Centre. It really is incredible how much that there is to see in such a small area, in the winter on a wet day.

See you again soon.

Warm Regards

Anna

Local Walk, a Nice Pint of Real Ale and Rosslyn Chapel.

With Storm Atiya lurking over the UK and Donald visiting  Donald snr. who has recently turned ninety years old, a feat that defies all medical science! what was I to do with my day?

I decided that I fancied a little trip out to Rosslyn Chapel and as there are plenty of lovely walks in the area, I’d take Loki and Olly with me.

We decide that there was little point in waiting for the wind and rain to abate, whilst the south west was really getting battered by Atiya, we were not untouched and it seemed set in for the day. So, the dogs and I waterproofed up to the gunnels, parked beside the chapel and set off for our walk first.

Walk along the River North Esk

It’s a nice circular route that begins and ends at Rosslyn Chapel, a favourite one of ours when we are in the area

We walked past the chapel to the end of the lane and Slatebarns Caravan site, bearing right onto the footpath.

Of course, all of this rain meant that the foot paths were a tad slippy, but no rush. . Half of the walk follows  The River North Esk, which was flowing in full spate. Brown water rushing helter scelter 

around the twists and turns, hurrying on towards the sea.

Local Wildlife

A heron flew without sound up river and I stood and watched some dippers, looking rather dapper in their dinner suits, black jackets and white tux. Flitting from branch to branch, low over the tumultuous water.

We normally see roe deer in the fields and woods here, its usually their white bottoms that catch our eye first, as they bound away, spooked by the dogs. Today though they must be tucked away and well camouflaged, sheltering from the weather.

On the other side of the river sits Hawthornden Castle, pretty in pink sandstone. It was the home of poet William Drummond and today it fittingly serves as a retreat for artists and writers.

Through the kissing gate, but no one to kiss today, the dogs and I took in an extra little loop that takes us into Hewan Woods. It follows a big bend in the river and to the site of Maiden Castle, an iron-age fort. The river is a good drop below us here and the weir is quite spectacular as so much rain tumbles over it.

Otters live along this stretch of the river, we always look for paw prints in the sand along the banks, but our tracking skills arn’t up to much and as the dogs have usually galloped all over the place, any tracks that there might have been probably get churned up by them.

It is little wonder that the glen is such a haven for wildlife for it is the largest surviving stretch of ancient woodland in Midlothian.

Through the woods and onto the Loanhead Railway Path, we follow this for a short way and I get the boys on their leads before passing through Dryden Farm. Just along from the farm is a memorial to one of the bloodiest battles of the Scottish Wars of Independence, The Battle of Roslin Memorial.

You can follow a path sign posted Bilston which follows Kill Burn, so called because it is said to have run red with blood for three days after the Battle.

Refreshments

We continued on the path for the village though, keen now to get out of the weather and seek refuge in The Original Rosslyn Inn for a cheeky half pint of local handcrafted ale before heading back to Rosslyn Chapel.

If you didn’t fancy a pub, you could always pop into Dollys Tea Room instead. Named after Dolly the sheep who was cloned in Roslin.

Rosslyn Chapel

Dogs nicely tired, we head for the chapel, which was put firmly on the tourist map by Dan Browns Da Vinci Code. The final scenes of the film were shot here, with Tom Hanks and Audry Tautou on site for a few days.

Founded way back in 1446 by Sir William St Clair, in the hope that it would secure him a place in Heaven. His plans were for a mini cathedral, but he died in 1484 before its completion. His son Oliver, one of 18 children, spent 2 years making it fit for purpose as a private chapel.

In 1592 the Religious reformation saw the chapel closed and abandoned for over 200 years.

This romantic chapel ruin and the pretty glen that it sits in has inspired artists such as William Turner and John Constable and writers including Robert Burns, Dorothy Wordsworth, her brother William and Sir Walter Scott. When you visit it is easy to see why.

In the 1950’s, roof repairs were undertaken and the interior stone work was cleaned and a protective coating applied. These measures taken in good faith however, ultimately led to water being trapped inside the stone and a green algae began to form turning the whole interior green.

In 1995, the Rosslyn Chapel Trust was formed to care for the chapel. Steps were taken to allow the stonework to dry out naturally and real restoration work began.

Today, as I stepped from the atrocious weather outside, into the arms of the chapel, I was greeted by the scent of beeswax candles and enveloped in a warm honey glow of light and warmth.

I have skimmed over the history of this place and now I don’t even know if I can put into words it’s beauty and magic. I’m sure that there are wordsmiths out there who can, but I feel I may do it some sort of injustice.

I’m not a religious person. Am I a spiritual soul? Yes I think that I am. I felt something here that I cannot explain nor do I understand. I felt quite overcome by emotion and even tearful. A sense of peace. I didn’t bother to read all the information about the carvings, riddled with story, mystery and intrigue though they are. Photography is not allowed inside, although people do try, but at their peril for  duty guide Maureen’s eagle eyes miss not a trick and fiercely protective she had no qualms reminding them of the policy. For me there’s no point trying. A photograph stolen on a mobile phone will never do it justice and it was so nice to be the moment.

An ornate skirt decorates the alter. Made up of four panels of elaborate embroidery depicting the Lords Prayer. I asked Maureen who made it, She laughed and told me that it was the local Sunday school children and that there was glitter, glue and buttons everywhere.

A simple Nativity scene lay nestled in the tomb of the 4th Earl of Caithness. Beautifully carved wooden figures snuggled in a bed of hay. William the chapel cat slept curled up tight on pew. A real Christmas tree decorated The Lady Chapel, already the most ornate section of the chapel, it’s pine scent adding to the atmosphere.

I lit a candle for my Grandparents then decided to head into the visitor centre. With its interactive displays, Rosslyn mysteries told by the UK’s Storyteller Laureate and activities for children to enjoy, a beautiful selection of gifts and coffee shop.

I enjoyed a nice coffee and a slice of cake then bought a few more Christmas presents, including an Emma Bridgewater mug, deigned especially for Rosslyn Chapel, for myself and a beautiful book, ‘William the Cat and the Rescue of Rosslyn Chapel’ written by The Countess of Rosslyn, for our wee nephew

Time to head home now and think about dinner and hear Donalds news from Glasgow. There’s a little romance blossoming between Donald snr. and the lady in the flat upstairs. He may be ninety, but there’s life in the old dog yet.